Dye Analysis of a Group of Late Intermediate Period Textiles from Ica, Peru
| Main Authors: | , |
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| Format: | Article |
| Language: | English Slovak |
| ISBN: | ISBN 0-8412-0553-1 |
| Online Access: | http://www.viks.sk/chk/ppthav_291_300.doc |
| Abstract: | Summaries. This chapter reports the analysis and identification of the natural dyestuffs used on a group of Late Intermediate Period, epoch 3B textiles from one grave lot (Site Z, grave 4, Hacienda Galagarza) in Ica, Peru. "With no written records from the Peruvians themselves, dye analysis can provide information on the technology and ethnobotany of the culture that created the textiles. This information also can be used in conjunction with other research to prolong the life of the textiles. Thin layer chromatography and UV/vis spectroscopy were used since these analytic techniques can utilize the small samples necessary when sampling from historic textiles. Comparisons were made between the archaelogical samples and standards dyed with known dye-stuffs. In general, the textiles from this grave site have reds that match the date for cochineal (carminic acid) and blues and greens that match indigo (indigotin). Whites, yellows, and browns were found to be the natural colors of the cotton and camelid fibers. Conclusions. In regards to fiber analysis, it was not possible to differentiate between archaeological alpaca, llama, and possibly vicuna and so the woolen fibers were called camelid (Figure 1). The cottons had the appearance in cross section of cotton today that is unmercerized. One cotton sample proved to be very interesting as an earth pigment was used for the bright orange color (Figure 2). X-ray fluorescence analysis confirmed that the earth pigment used was cinnabar (mercury sulfide) (Figure 3). None of the other cotton samples were dyed except for one blue sample, which was dyed with indigo and used as a decorative warp stripe (Figure 4) along one selvedge of the textile 4-4873B. The camelid samples were the naturally occurring fiber colors except for the reds, blues, and greens (Figure 5). The reds were obtained from a source of carminic acid, probably the native Dactylopius confusus (cochineal) species (7) (Table V and Figure 6). The blues and greens were obtained from a source containing indigotin, probably the native species of Indigofera suffruticosa (8) (Table VI and Figure 7). Much dye analysis work remains to be done on historic textiles of all kinds. Recently, there has been some research including thin layer chromatography using micropolyamide plates with much success (9,10). Future work could use both types of plates to increase the accuracy of identification. Thin layer chromatography is proving to be an inexpensive and simple method for the identification of dyestuffs used on historic textiles. As well as providing information used in conjunction with other research that could increase the longevity of the textiles, information on the culture and technology that created the textiles is also a welcome result. |
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| ISBN: | ISBN 0-8412-0553-1 |
